Outer Wall and Insulation
For the insulation, four-inch foil-backed fibreglass insulation should be stapled to the outside of the yurt’s inner wall before the outer wall has been put up.
For the outer wall, draw a line across each 22 of the 64-1/2-inch long wall boards, 2-1/2 inches from the top. Now you can position those boards so that the left edge is even with the right edge of the doorway. Nail the plank securely with three 8-penny nails at its top and three 10-penny nails at the bottom of the floor. Then you can proceed to position and nail the rest of the boards, in the same manner, making sure that you leave a ½-inch gap between each one.
Now you can nail the remaining 64-1/2-inch-long outer wall boards in place evenly over the gaps in the first layer and exactly even with the tops of the first planks. Use 8-penny nails spaced every six inches along the connections of the boards. The space above the doorway should be filled with short pieces cut to fit the curve of the door.
Now you can install the yurt’s second tension band which will be at the top of the outside wall. Then cut the insulation diagonally to match lines of the roof boards and run it up and down the roof.
Use the 70-1/2 inch and 71-inch boards and follow the same instructions as described in the roof section above. However, you will not need the props, and clinging won’t be required.
You will then need to rip the 1×8 boards, and wedge one of the pieces into each of the spaces left in the upper roof’s surface, and tap them all into place with a hammer. Now you can nail the boards securely to the roof and saw off any excess.
Shingling a round roof isn’t the easiest of tasks, as each shingle must be hand tapered on all sides to fit the shape. However, the end product makes every bit of effort worthwhile.
You should start shingling at the outer edge of the roof and work upward. Make the first row three shingles thick, and position the shingles so that they overlap the eaves by about 3 and a half inches. You should then draw a line about 5-inches above the first row and then start the next course. As you near the top of the roof, measure 5-inch intervals down from the top to even out any errors that may have occurred.
This yurt’s windows require only a minimum of construction skills and materials. One-quarter inch plate or crystal glass can be safely installed without frames and is often available at low cost.
The doorway of your yurt is made by cutting appropriate openings in the inner and outer walls. You can make the cuts with a keyhole saw after each walls tension band has been secured. Reinforce the areas above the openings with two-inch-wide strips of wood nailed on the inside and out, and fill the gaps between the inner and outer walls with spacers cut to fit. Build the door to overlap the inner wall cavity by ¾-inches at all points, and use double-strap hinges to secure it in place.
This guide should help you build the yurt of your dreams, but it always essential to speak with a professional, just to make sure that the build goes as smoothly as possible. Be sure all the necessary safety measures are in place before construction, and have someone to assist you with the build itself.